Dr. Fixit All Seal

DR. FIXITAuthorised distributor

Dr. Fixit All Seal

A Si-bond polymer that turns ordinary site cement into a flexible, water-shedding slurry coat for roofs, sunken bathrooms and balconies.

BrandDr. FixitCategoryWaterproofingFormA two-part, site-mixed waterproofing system: Dr. Fixit All Seal’s milky-white Si-bond polymer liquid is blended 1:1…

What is it?

A two-part, site-mixed waterproofing system: Dr. Fixit All Seal’s milky-white Si-bond polymer liquid is blended 1:1 by weight with ordinary cement and rolled or brushed on as a slurry that cures into a continuous polymer-cement film.

Where is it used?

Sunken bathroom and toilet decks, kitchen and utility wet zones, balconies, and exposed RCC roof slabs — always applied before the finished screed or tile bed goes down, never left as an exposed wearing surface.

Why use it?

It is the low-cost, low-skill entry point into positive waterproofing at the deck level: no torching, no factory-made membrane rolls, no specialist crew — just prime, mix, and roll on two coats.

How is it applied?

Clean and dampen the substrate, mix All Seal and OPC cement in equal parts into a lump-free slurry, and apply two coats by brush or roller at right angles to each other with roughly a 6-hour gap, then cure and cover promptly with screed or tiles.

About Dr. Fixit All Seal

{

“name”: “Dr. Fixit All Seal”,

“slug”: “drfixit-dr-fixit-all-seal”,

“brand”: “Dr. Fixit”,

“realProduct”: “yes”,

“officialSource”: “https://www.drfixit.co.in/products/dr-fixit-all-seal/detail”,

“category”: “waterproofing”,

“metaTitle”: “Dr. Fixit All Seal | Roof & Bath Waterproofing | Space Arc”,

“metaDescription”: “Dr. Fixit All Seal is a Si-bond polymer that blends with cement to waterproof roofs, sunken bathrooms, and balconies before screed or tiling in Indian homes.”,

“heroSubtitle”: “A Si-bond polymer that turns ordinary site cement into a flexible, water-shedding slurry coat for roofs, sunken bathrooms and balconies.”,

“glance”: {

“whatIsIt”: “A two-part, site-mixed waterproofing system: Dr. Fixit All Seal’s milky-white Si-bond polymer liquid is blended 1:1 by weight with ordinary cement and rolled or brushed on as a slurry that cures into a continuous polymer-cement film.”,

“whereUsed”: “Sunken bathroom and toilet decks, kitchen and utility wet zones, balconies, and exposed RCC roof slabs — always applied before the finished screed or tile bed goes down, never left as an exposed wearing surface.”,

“whyUse”: “It is the low-cost, low-skill entry point into positive waterproofing at the deck level: no torching, no factory-made membrane rolls, no specialist crew — just prime, mix, and roll on two coats.”,

“howApplied”: “Clean and dampen the substrate, mix All Seal and OPC cement in equal parts into a lump-free slurry, and apply two coats by brush or roller at right angles to each other with roughly a 6-hour gap, then cure and cover promptly with screed or tiles.”

},

“about”: “Dr. Fixit is Pidilite’s flagship waterproofing brand and the one most Indian masons and site engineers reach for by default, and All Seal sits in its ‘under-screed slurry coat’ family — the category of products meant to be mixed with cement on site rather than applied as a ready membrane or dosed into wet concrete. The liquid itself is a modified Si-bond co-polymer, off-white to milky in appearance, with roughly 38% total solids, a relative density close to 1.01, and a mildly alkaline pH of about 8. Mixed 1:1 by weight with ordinary Portland cement, it forms a workable slurry that, once cured over two coats, builds a film in the region of 900-1000 microns — thick enough to act as a genuine physical barrier rather than just a pore-blocking treatment.\n\nOn a typical Space Arc site, All Seal earns its keep at the two places Indian buildings leak most: the sunken portion of a bathroom or toilet slab before the screed goes in, and an exposed terrace or balcony before tiling. Because the polymer is engineered to bond well even to damp or slightly green concrete, it forgives the reality of Indian construction schedules, where surfaces are rarely bone-dry when the waterproofing gang shows up. It is not the most sophisticated system on the market — elastomeric coatings flex more, and crystalline admixtures can self-heal hairline cracks — but for the specific job of sealing a sunken slab or roof deck under a protective screed, at a price that keeps small bathroom and balcony jobs affordable, it remains one of the most widely specified products in the segment.”,

“technicalInsight”: “What separates All Seal from a plain cement slurry is the polymer’s role once it is mixed in: as the water evaporates and the cement hydrates, fine polymer particles coalesce into a semi-flexible film that laces through the cement matrix, closing capillary pores and giving the cured coat a degree of crack-bridging ability that neat cement paste simply doesn’t have. This is also why the same liquid, dosed into repair mortars rather than used as a slurry coat, pushes 28-day mortar compressive strength up toward the 40 MPa range — the polymer is improving bond and cohesion, not just water resistance. The trade-off inherent to this chemistry is that performance depends on getting the ratio and coat build right: mix water into the slurry to stretch a bag further, or skip the second coat, and the film thins out well below the 900-1000 micron target, which is where most site failures with this category of product actually originate — rarely the material itself.”,

“applications”: [

“Sunken portion (deck) waterproofing in bathrooms and toilets before the screed is laid”,

“Balcony and terrace waterproofing under the tile bed”,

“Kitchen and utility-area wet-zone waterproofing ahead of flooring”,

“Exposed RCC roof slab waterproofing before a protective screed or tile/china-mosaic finish”,

“Polymer-modified repair mortar and plaster for damp-prone internal or external walls”,

“Bonding and waterproofing admixture for site-mixed screed and concrete toppings”,

“Retrofit waterproofing of old, leaking sunken slabs during bathroom renovation”

],

“advantages”: [

“Simple 1:1 mix with ordinary cement — no complex proportioning or exotic primers”,

“Roller application is roughly 30% faster than brush-only systems, cutting labour time”,

“Builds a continuous ~900-1000 micron polymer-cement film across two coats”,

“Good adhesion to damp or green concrete, matching real Indian site conditions”,

“Adds measurable strength to the underlying screed or mortar rather than sitting inert on top”,

“Rated for around a 5-year service life when detailed, cured and protected correctly”,

“Backed by Pidilite’s pan-India dealer and applicator network for material and technical support”,

“More economical than elastomeric coatings or crystalline systems for small wet-area jobs”

],

“limitations”: [

“It is a hand-mixed slurry coat, not a factory-controlled membrane, so film quality depends heavily on the applicator getting the ratio, coverage and coat count right”,

“Must be protected by screed or tiles — it is not designed to be left exposed as a wearing or UV-facing surface”,

“Two coats with a roughly 6-hour gap mean the job cannot be rushed through in a single short visit, and rain or dust during curing can compromise the film”,

“Not a solution for structural or actively moving cracks, which need root-cause structural repair before any waterproofing coat”,

“Coverage and film thickness are sensitive to site practice — over-diluting the mix to stretch material is a common shortcut that thins the membrane below spec”,

“Genuine stock, batch consistency and warranty support are best assured through authorised Pidilite distributors rather than open-market resellers”

],

“bestPractice”: “Start with a sound, clean substrate — hack off loose plaster, remove laitance, and round off internal corners so the slurry doesn’t bridge sharp angles. Dampen the surface (not standing water) before application. Mix All Seal and OPC cement in equal parts by weight to a lump-free, brushable consistency, working only what will be used within its pot life. Apply the first coat by brush or roller, let it firm up for about 6 hours, then apply the second coat at right angles to the first so any pinholes in one layer are covered by the other. Keep the surface protected from rain, foot traffic and direct sun while curing, and lay the protective screed or tile bed promptly once the coat has cured — leaving a finished slurry coat exposed for extended periods defeats the point of protecting it. On sunken bathroom decks, always dress the coating up the walls to at least skirting height and around all pipe penetrations, since penetration points are where most retrofit leaks actually originate.”,

“specs”: [

{ “property”: “Technology”, “value”: “Advanced Si-bond modified co-polymer, mixed with cement on site” },

{ “property”: “Appearance”, “value”: “Milky-white liquid” },

{ “property”: “Total solids content”, “value”: “38% ± 1% by mass” },

{ “property”: “Relative density”, “value”: “~1.01” },

{ “property”: “pH”, “value”: “8 ± 1” },

{ “property”: “Mixing ratio”, “value”: “1:1 (All Seal : OPC cement, by weight) for slurry coat” },

{ “property”: “Coverage”, “value”: “Approx. 1.5-1.8 m² (16-19 sq ft) per kg for the two-coat slurry system; manufacturer collateral cites up to 25 sq ft/kg under ideal conditions” },

{ “property”: “Dry film thickness”, “value”: “Approx. 900-1000 microns over two coats” },

{ “property”: “Pack sizes”, “value”: “1 kg, 5 kg, 10 kg, 20 kg, 50 kg” }

],

“useCases”: [

{ “sector”: “Residential renovation”, “detail”: “Re-waterproofing a leaking sunken bathroom slab in a Delhi NCR apartment before re-tiling the deck” },

{ “sector”: “Residential new-build”, “detail”: “Waterproofing balconies and utility ledges in a builder-floor project before the screed is laid” },

{ “sector”: “Institutional”, “detail”: “Wet-area waterproofing under flooring in school and office washroom blocks” },

{ “sector”: “Repair and retrofit”, “detail”: “Used as a polymer-modified bonding and waterproofing additive in patch-repair mortar for terrace parapets” },

{ “sector”: “Small commercial”, “detail”: “Waterproofing exposed roof slabs of shops and showrooms ahead of a protective screed” }

],

“faq”: [

{ “q”: “Is Dr. Fixit All Seal a waterproofing membrane by itself?”, “a”: “Not in the rolled-membrane sense. It’s a polymer you mix 1:1 with cement on site to form a slurry; the cured two-coat film, roughly 900-1000 microns thick, is the water-resistant layer, and it must sit under a protective screed or tile bed rather than stay exposed.” },

{ “q”: “Can it be applied on a damp surface?”, “a”: “Yes, it’s formulated for good adhesion to damp or green concrete, which suits typical Indian site conditions — though standing water or an actively leaking surface should be dried or plugged before you start.” },

{ “q”: “How long before I can lay screed or tiles over it?”, “a”: “Apply the two coats at roughly a 6-hour gap, then let the second coat cure fully — typically 24-48 hours depending on weather — before loading it with screed, and keep it protected from rain during that window.” },

{ “q”: “How much material do I need for a typical bathroom?”, “a”: “Coverage runs about 1.5-1.8 m² per kg for the two-coat slurry, so a standard 5-6 m² sunken bathroom deck usually needs roughly 3-4 kg of All Seal mixed with an equal weight of cement.” },

{ “q”: “Will it fix a bathroom that’s already leaking?”, “a”: “Only if you break up to slab level and redo the waterproofing properly — All Seal is a preventive coat applied before the screed, not a topical leak-fix for finished flooring, so most retrofits mean removing the existing tiles and screed first.” },

{ “q”: “How is All Seal different from Dr. Fixit Pidiproof LW+?”, “a”: “Pidiproof LW+ is an integral waterproofing admixture dosed straight into the concrete or plaster mix, while All Seal is a separate polymer blended with cement and rolled on as a surface slurry — many contractors use both together on the same job for layered protection.” }

],

“positioning”: “Within Pidilite’s own range, All Seal is best understood as the under-screed slurry-coat option that sits alongside Dr. Fixit Pidiproof LW+ (an integral admixture dosed into concrete or plaster rather than brushed on), Dr. Fixit Roofseal (a topcoat system for exposed, UV-facing roofs that stay uncovered), and Dr. Fixit Newcoat for terrace waterproof coatings — Space Arc often specifies All Seal for the hidden, under-tile layer and pairs it with one of these surface systems where a roof is left exposed. For specifiers already standardised on Fosroc for bonding agents and repair works, Nitobond SBR is the nearest cross-brand comparison: it’s also a polymer liquid mixed with cement to form a bonding/waterproofing slurry, though Fosroc positions it primarily as a bonding aid and mortar additive rather than a dedicated waterproofing product, so it’s usually chosen when the primary need is repair-mortar bonding with waterproofing as a secondary benefit, not the other way around.”,

“fosrocAlternative”: {

“name”: “Nitobond SBR”,

“slug”: “fosroc-nitobond-sbr”,

“note”: “A specifier already using Fosroc for bonding agents and repair mortars might choose Nitobond SBR instead, since it forms a similar polymer-cement slurry, though it is positioned primarily as a bonding aid and mortar additive rather than a dedicated waterproofing coat like All Seal.”

}

}

The technical insight

What separates All Seal from a plain cement slurry is the polymer’s role once it is mixed in: as the water evaporates and the cement hydrates, fine polymer particles coalesce into a semi-flexible film that laces through the cement matrix, closing capillary pores and giving the cured coat a degree of crack-bridging ability that neat cement paste simply doesn’t have. This is also why the same liquid, dosed into repair mortars rather than used as a slurry coat, pushes 28-day mortar compressive strength up toward the 40 MPa range — the polymer is improving bond and cohesion, not just water resistance. The trade-off inherent to this chemistry is that performance depends on getting the ratio and coat build right: mix water into the slurry to stretch a bag further, or skip the second coat, and the film thins out well below the 900-1000 micron target, which is where most site failures with this category of product actually originate — rarely the material itself.

Where it is used

  • Sunken portion (deck) waterproofing in bathrooms and toilets before the screed is laid
  • Balcony and terrace waterproofing under the tile bed
  • Kitchen and utility-area wet-zone waterproofing ahead of flooring
  • Exposed RCC roof slab waterproofing before a protective screed or tile/china-mosaic finish
  • Polymer-modified repair mortar and plaster for damp-prone internal or external walls
  • Bonding and waterproofing admixture for site-mixed screed and concrete toppings
  • Retrofit waterproofing of old, leaking sunken slabs during bathroom renovation

Key advantages

  • Simple 1:1 mix with ordinary cement — no complex proportioning or exotic primers
  • Roller application is roughly 30% faster than brush-only systems, cutting labour time
  • Builds a continuous ~900-1000 micron polymer-cement film across two coats
  • Good adhesion to damp or green concrete, matching real Indian site conditions
  • Adds measurable strength to the underlying screed or mortar rather than sitting inert on top
  • Rated for around a 5-year service life when detailed, cured and protected correctly
  • Backed by Pidilite’s pan-India dealer and applicator network for material and technical support
  • More economical than elastomeric coatings or crystalline systems for small wet-area jobs

Limitations & considerations

  • It is a hand-mixed slurry coat, not a factory-controlled membrane, so film quality depends heavily on the applicator getting the ratio, coverage and coat count right
  • Must be protected by screed or tiles — it is not designed to be left exposed as a wearing or UV-facing surface
  • Two coats with a roughly 6-hour gap mean the job cannot be rushed through in a single short visit, and rain or dust during curing can compromise the film
  • Not a solution for structural or actively moving cracks, which need root-cause structural repair before any waterproofing coat
  • Coverage and film thickness are sensitive to site practice — over-diluting the mix to stretch material is a common shortcut that thins the membrane below spec
  • Genuine stock, batch consistency and warranty support are best assured through authorised Pidilite distributors rather than open-market resellers

Selection & best practice

Start with a sound, clean substrate — hack off loose plaster, remove laitance, and round off internal corners so the slurry doesn’t bridge sharp angles. Dampen the surface (not standing water) before application. Mix All Seal and OPC cement in equal parts by weight to a lump-free, brushable consistency, working only what will be used within its pot life. Apply the first coat by brush or roller, let it firm up for about 6 hours, then apply the second coat at right angles to the first so any pinholes in one layer are covered by the other. Keep the surface protected from rain, foot traffic and direct sun while curing, and lay the protective screed or tile bed promptly once the coat has cured — leaving a finished slurry coat exposed for extended periods defeats the point of protecting it. On sunken bathroom decks, always dress the coating up the walls to at least skirting height and around all pipe penetrations, since penetration points are where most retrofit leaks actually originate.

Specifications

Technology Advanced Si-bond modified co-polymer, mixed with cement on site
Appearance Milky-white liquid
Total solids content 38% ± 1% by mass
Relative density ~1.01
pH 8 ± 1
Mixing ratio 1:1 (All Seal : OPC cement, by weight) for slurry coat
Coverage Approx. 1.5-1.8 m² (16-19 sq ft) per kg for the two-coat slurry system; manufacturer collateral cites up to 25 sq ft/kg under ideal conditions
Dry film thickness Approx. 900-1000 microns over two coats
Pack sizes 1 kg, 5 kg, 10 kg, 20 kg, 50 kg

Industry use cases

Residential renovation

Re-waterproofing a leaking sunken bathroom slab in a Delhi NCR apartment before re-tiling the deck

Residential new-build

Waterproofing balconies and utility ledges in a builder-floor project before the screed is laid

Institutional

Wet-area waterproofing under flooring in school and office washroom blocks

Repair and retrofit

Used as a polymer-modified bonding and waterproofing additive in patch-repair mortar for terrace parapets

Small commercial

Waterproofing exposed roof slabs of shops and showrooms ahead of a protective screed

Frequently asked questions

Is Dr. Fixit All Seal a waterproofing membrane by itself?
Not in the rolled-membrane sense. It’s a polymer you mix 1:1 with cement on site to form a slurry; the cured two-coat film, roughly 900-1000 microns thick, is the water-resistant layer, and it must sit under a protective screed or tile bed rather than stay exposed.
Can it be applied on a damp surface?
Yes, it’s formulated for good adhesion to damp or green concrete, which suits typical Indian site conditions — though standing water or an actively leaking surface should be dried or plugged before you start.
How long before I can lay screed or tiles over it?
Apply the two coats at roughly a 6-hour gap, then let the second coat cure fully — typically 24-48 hours depending on weather — before loading it with screed, and keep it protected from rain during that window.
How much material do I need for a typical bathroom?
Coverage runs about 1.5-1.8 m² per kg for the two-coat slurry, so a standard 5-6 m² sunken bathroom deck usually needs roughly 3-4 kg of All Seal mixed with an equal weight of cement.
Will it fix a bathroom that’s already leaking?
Only if you break up to slab level and redo the waterproofing properly — All Seal is a preventive coat applied before the screed, not a topical leak-fix for finished flooring, so most retrofits mean removing the existing tiles and screed first.
How is All Seal different from Dr. Fixit Pidiproof LW+?
Pidiproof LW+ is an integral waterproofing admixture dosed straight into the concrete or plaster mix, while All Seal is a separate polymer blended with cement and rolled on as a surface slurry — many contractors use both together on the same job for layered protection.

How we position Dr. Fixit All Seal

Within Pidilite’s own range, All Seal is best understood as the under-screed slurry-coat option that sits alongside Dr. Fixit Pidiproof LW+ (an integral admixture dosed into concrete or plaster rather than brushed on), Dr. Fixit Roofseal (a topcoat system for exposed, UV-facing roofs that stay uncovered), and Dr. Fixit Newcoat for terrace waterproof coatings — Space Arc often specifies All Seal for the hidden, under-tile layer and pairs it with one of these surface systems where a roof is left exposed. For specifiers already standardised on Fosroc for bonding agents and repair works, Nitobond SBR is the nearest cross-brand comparison: it’s also a polymer liquid mixed with cement to form a bonding/waterproofing slurry, though Fosroc positions it primarily as a bonding aid and mortar additive rather than a dedicated waterproofing product, so it’s usually chosen when the primary need is repair-mortar bonding with waterproofing as a secondary benefit, not the other way around.

Preferred brand · Fosroc equivalent

Fosroc Nitobond SBR — A specifier already using Fosroc for bonding agents and repair mortars might choose Nitobond SBR instead, since it forms a similar polymer-cement slurry, though it is positioned primarily as a bonding aid and mortar additive rather than a dedicated waterproofing coat like All Seal.

Compare with Fosroc Nitobond SBR →

Technical disclaimer. The technical information on this page is derived from Dr. Fixit’s published product literature and is provided by Space Arc Engineering as an authorised distributor for general guidance. Specifications can change; always confirm the current values against the manufacturer’s latest official Technical Data Sheet before specification or application. Source: Dr. Fixit official documentation.

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